Block print is one of the few kurti prints where the technique is as much a selling point as the pattern itself. It is also one of the most imitated, with a digital or screen print regularly sold under the same name because the two can look close in a photograph. This guide covers the main block print styles, what actually happens in the craft, and a simple way to tell genuine hand block print from a machine copy.
Block printing is done by carving a pattern into a wooden block, dipping it in dye, and stamping it onto fabric by hand, one repeat at a time, often with a separate block for each colour in the design. A single kurti length can involve dozens of individual stampings to complete one motif across the fabric, which is what gives hand block print its slight, natural variation from one repeat to the next.
Bagru. Named after the town of Bagru in Rajasthan, this style is known for natural, earthy dye colours, often indigo, black and red on a cream or off-white base, using a mix of direct printing and resist techniques.
Sanganeri. From Sanganer, also in Rajasthan, this style tends toward finer, more delicate floral motifs on a lighter background, and is one of the most commonly seen block print styles on everyday cotton kurtis. Our A-line kurti guide touches on Jaipuri cotton in this family as one of the four fabric varieties we work with.
Ajrakh. A more elaborate resist-printing technique from Gujarat and Sindh, traditionally worked in deep indigo and madder red with intricate geometric and floral patterns, printed on both sides of the fabric in some traditional pieces.
Dabu. A mud-resist printing technique where a paste is applied to block out areas of fabric before dyeing, giving the pattern a distinctive slightly soft, organic edge rather than a crisp line.
This is the check most worth learning if you buy or sell block print regularly.
Look at the repeat. Hand block print has small, natural inconsistencies from one motif to the next, slight variations in spacing or pressure. A digital or screen print repeats with mechanical precision, identical every time.
Check the reverse. On genuine hand block print, especially on lighter fabric, the dye often shows through faintly to the back in a way that mirrors natural absorption. A digital print typically sits only on the surface and barely shows through at all.
Look for slight colour bleed at the edges. A small amount of soft bleed where the dye meets the fabric is normal and even expected in hand block print, since the dye is pressed rather than sprayed. A perfectly crisp, sharp-edged pattern with zero bleed is more likely digitally printed.
Ask directly. A supplier who can tell you which block print style a design uses, Bagru, Sanganeri, Ajrakh or Dabu, and why, is more likely working with the real craft than one who simply says block print without specifics.
Every stamp in a hand block print piece is placed by an artisan, and a complex, multi-colour design can take a full day or more per length of fabric. That labour, along with the cost of hand-carved wooden blocks that can themselves take weeks to make, is what separates the price of genuine hand block print from a digital print carrying the same visual pattern.
Block print already carries a lot of visual interest, so it pairs best with simple, solid-coloured bottoms rather than another busy print. Straight pants or palazzos in a colour pulled from the print work well, and oxidised silver jewellery suits the earthy, natural character of most block print styles better than heavily polished gold. For occasions where you want more coverage, our dupatta draping guide covers adding a plain dupatta without competing with the print.
Block print sells consistently across seasons, unlike many festive-only prints, since its earthy palette and craft story suit both daily and slightly dressier wear. Be clear with customers about whether a piece is genuine hand block print or a digital print in a similar style, since the price difference is significant and an unclear claim leads to disappointed repeat customers. Carry a base of everyday cotton block print alongside a smaller block of Ajrakh or heavier Dabu pieces for customers seeking the craft specifically rather than just the look. Our best fabrics for kurtis guide and cotton kurtas range cover the fabric side of this in more depth, and the wholesale buying guide covers order planning.
Block print is done by carving a pattern into a wooden block, dipping it in dye, and stamping it onto fabric by hand, one repeat at a time. It often uses a separate block for each colour and produces slight natural variation between repeats.
Bagru print, from Bagru in Rajasthan, uses natural, earthy colours like indigo, black and red on a cream base. Sanganeri print, from Sanganer, tends toward finer, more delicate floral motifs on a lighter background.
Ajrakh is an elaborate resist-printing technique from Gujarat and Sindh, traditionally done in deep indigo and madder red with intricate geometric and floral patterns, sometimes printed on both sides of the fabric.
Look for small natural inconsistencies in the repeat, slight colour bleed at the edges where the dye meets the fabric, and dye showing faintly through to the reverse of lighter fabric. A perfectly crisp, mechanically identical repeat with no bleed is more likely a digital or machine print.
Dabu is a mud-resist printing technique where a paste is applied to block out areas of fabric before dyeing, giving the finished pattern a distinctive soft, organic edge rather than a crisp line.
Every stamp in a hand block print piece is placed individually by an artisan, and a complex design can take a full day or more per fabric length, along with the cost of hand-carved wooden blocks. That labour is what separates its price from a digital print with a similar visual pattern.
Snehal Creation Inc has been manufacturing women’s ethnic wear in Mumbai since 2003, supplying retailers across India with block print kurtis across Bagru, Sanganeri and other styles, at wholesale rates that leave room for a healthy margin.
WhatsApp: +91 97695 39989
Website: www.snehalcreation.com
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बेहतर कुर्तियाँ, बेहतर बिज़नेस, बेहतर भविष्य।