September 10, 2026 · Mahesh Agarwal, Founder
Embroidery is the fastest way a plain kurti body turns into something worth a second look. The trouble is that the word covers a dozen very different techniques, done by hand or by machine, in cotton thread or metallic zari or mirrors, and knowing which is which changes both what you should pay and what you are actually getting. This guide walks through the main embroidery types found on kurtis, how to judge quality, and how to style a worked piece.
The broadest category, thread embroidery covers any design worked in coloured or white cotton, silk or synthetic thread, from a simple outline at the neckline to dense floral panels covering most of the kurti. Chikankari is the most famous named style within thread embroidery, a white-on-white technique from Lucknow with its own defined stitches, which we cover in detail in our chikankari kurti guide. Outside chikankari, coloured thread work in florals, paisleys and borders is the most common embroidery seen on everyday kurtis.
Zari uses metallic thread, traditionally real gold or silver-wrapped thread and now mostly a synthetic equivalent, to create a raised, shimmering effect. It is the embroidery most associated with festive and wedding-guest kurtis, since the metallic finish reads as dressed up even on a simple cut. Zari borders at the hem and sleeve are common on otherwise plain kurtis as a lighter way to bring in the effect.
Mirror work, also called sheesha or abhla work, sets small round or shaped mirrors into the embroidery, usually held in place with thread stitched around the edge. It has strong roots in Gujarat and Rajasthan and gives a kurti a distinctly folk, festive character, catching light as the wearer moves. It is often combined with thread work rather than used entirely on its own.
Sequin embroidery uses small flat discs stitched onto the fabric, either scattered for a subtle shimmer or densely packed for a bold, party-ready finish. It is the quickest embroidery type to read as festive from a distance and is common on kurtis meant for evening wear rather than daily use.
Gota patti uses metallic ribbon, folded and stitched into small motifs such as flowers and leaves, rather than thread or mirrors. It has a distinctly Rajasthani character and gives a raised, dimensional look that photographs particularly well, which is part of why it has become popular well beyond its home region.
Aari work is done with a hooked needle rather than a regular needle, which lets an artisan work chain stitches quickly and cover large areas with dense, continuous embroidery. It is often used for the heavily worked yokes and borders seen on richer festive kurtis, and can combine thread, sequins and beads within the same piece.
Almost every technique above exists in both hand and machine versions, and the difference matters more than the technique name itself. Hand embroidery has small natural irregularities in stitch size and spacing, and on the reverse of the fabric you can usually see the actual thread work rather than a flat printed or backed surface. Machine embroidery is faster to produce, more uniform, and priced accordingly lower, which is not a flaw as long as it is sold honestly as machine work. Our guide to chikankari's history and our chikankari kurti guide go into the reverse-side check in more detail, and the same principle applies across embroidery types generally.
Four things move the price more than anything else: whether the work is hand or machine done, how dense the embroidery is across the garment, whether it uses real metallic thread or a synthetic finish, and how much handwork like knots and mirror-setting is involved rather than a single repeated stitch. A kurti with a light embroidered yoke and a plain body will always cost less than one worked densely across the full length, regardless of which technique is used.
A heavily embroidered kurti generally needs less around it, not more. Keep the bottom plain or in a single solid colour so the embroidery stays the focus, and go easy on jewellery, particularly if the embroidery already sits at the neckline. Sleeve and neckline embroidery pairs naturally with the choices in our neck designs guide and sleeve designs guide. For daily wear, a lightly embroidered yoke on an otherwise plain kurti gives just enough detail without tipping into festive territory.
Embroidered kurtis carry a wider price range than any other category, so clarity with the customer matters more here than elsewhere. Be specific about whether a piece is hand or machine embroidered rather than leaving it to be assumed, since a customer who feels misled over this does not come back. Carry a base of lightly embroidered daily-wear pieces alongside a smaller block of densely worked festive stock, since the two rarely sell to the same customer at the same time of year. Our types of kurtis guide shows where embroidery fits across the range, and the wholesale buying guide covers order planning. Browse the current embroidery kurtis and designer kurtis ranges for what is available now.
The main types are thread embroidery, including named styles like chikankari, zari work using metallic thread, mirror work using small set-in mirrors, sequin embroidery, gota patti using folded metallic ribbon, and aari or hook embroidery for dense, continuous stitching.
Check the reverse of the fabric. Hand embroidery shows small natural irregularities in stitch size and the actual thread work on the back, while machine embroidery has a flat, uniform back with none of that texture.
Zari work uses metallic thread, traditionally real gold or silver-wrapped thread and now usually a synthetic equivalent, to create a raised, shimmering design. It is commonly seen on festive and wedding-guest kurtis.
Mirror work sets small mirrors into the fabric held by stitched thread, giving a folk, festive look rooted in Gujarat and Rajasthan. Sequin work uses small flat discs stitched on for shimmer, and reads as party wear more than traditional craft.
Price mainly comes from whether the work is hand or machine done, how densely the embroidery covers the garment, whether real or synthetic metallic thread is used, and how much detailed handwork like knots or mirror-setting is involved.
Keep the bottom plain or in a solid colour and keep jewellery minimal, especially if the embroidery already covers the neckline. A heavily worked kurti needs less around it, not more, to let the embroidery stay the focus.
Snehal Creation Inc has been manufacturing women’s ethnic wear in Mumbai since 2003, supplying retailers across India with embroidered kurtis across thread work, zari, mirror and sequin styles, at wholesale rates that leave room for a healthy margin.
WhatsApp: +91 97695 39989
Website: www.snehalcreation.com
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बेहतर कुर्तियाँ, बेहतर बिज़नेस, बेहतर भविष्य।
